An Unorthodox Easter

This may be our last post for a couple of days since we're staying tonight in Rethymno on Crete and then making our way to Iraklio for a late-night boat back to Athens and then fly to Rome for a couple of packed site-seeing days. Perhaps we'll have a chance to post in Rome, but we'll probably be too tired from circumnavigating the city by foot.

So, here we go...

Paula and I survived Greek Orthodox Easter. It was actually pretty anticlimactic for us as we thought there would be more festivities. The night before easter (the 18th) there was a late-night service that was apparently the place to be seen. We got there plenty early and found a spot in the courtyard outside the church. At some point shortly before the service began, trumpets and drums sounded from the street and a procession of Greek military personell from all the different branches marched in and lined the courtyard, esentially creating a walk way for higher ups to get to church (see photo with the dudes in berets in front of the church). Despite the service taking place inside the church, every time a dignitary showed up they would play a little instrumental piece and then stand at attention. Quite the ordeal and an interesting blend of church and state.

At the end of the service, the pastors/priests/internet-reverends (whatever they're called) walk out with their banners and a candle. They then light the dignatary's candles who in turn light the lay person's candles and it spreads through the crowd like that (see photo of Paula with her candle lit). Sort of cool... Then, the head pastor/priest/etc. kisses the dignataries and all is pretty much done. At that point, we're told that everyone goes out to eat, since they've gone 40 days (in theory) without eating meat, and there's a lot of fireworks (we were thinking 4th of July style). However, the fireworks were little more than 12 year old boys lighting things that went 'bang.'

The next day was another service that Paula and I decided to skip. We thought there would be more festivities However, all the restaruants had lamb roasted on a spit. Each taverna and restaruant had their own spit and their own lamb. Here's where our Easter became a little less orthodox...

Paula and I decided to try a cute taverna away from the marina that had their own lamb on a spit. Since I try essentially anything that is 'Greek' or 'Cretan' cuisine (the mountain snails aren't really worth trying, FYI), of course I had to try the easter lamb. Our meal was great. We had a Chania Salad (essentially a Greek salad with local feta-like cheese "masithra" - I think its feta from goats that have a large wildflower diet, so its seasonal), lots of bread with local olive oil, Paula had a chicken souvlaki, and washed it all down with a liter of their home-made barrel red wine (see photo). According to Paula, we both drank essentially the same amount of red wine. However, I find that claim to be hog wash...cause my world was beginning to turn... Then they brought out the raki (remember the Cretan moonshine - see Photo). I killed the raki at the expense of my sobriety and pretty sure I might have tipped them handidly. Because of our meal and more imporantly the beverages we enjoyed, I had to spend a few hours in bed, which sort of ended our Easter rather abruptly.

Today was a new day though, and I feel terrific...thanks for asking. We drove to the head of the Samaria Gorge (longest Gorge in Europe at 16 km). Paula really wanted to hike it, but its closed until mid- to late-May from what we understand. However, the drive was great in our cute lil' Toyota Aygo. Now we're in Rethymno, which is not all that great after Hania (or Chania). Rethymno is a college town surrounded by resorts along the coast. So, there's plenty of people and lots of tavernas, but Paula and I would probably prefer to be in Hania another night. No complaints though.

Tomorrow begins the long slog back to Athens arriving by boat at 5AM the following morning. We'll have a half day in Athens to catch the Athens Archeaological Museum before heading to airport. We'll arrive in Rome later that night and prepare for Rome in 1 day. It's totally going to work, don't worry about it...

So until then, I hope this post didn't bore you to death. We're both sober and healthy. We'll chat again soon...